Welcome to the 2020 version of Quill & Pad’s early Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions during which the workforce picks favorites and explains why.
The panelists are:
Elizabeth Doerr (ED), co-founder and editor-in-chief
Ian Skellern (IS), co-founder and technical director
Joshua Munchow (JM), resident nerd author
GaryG (GG), resident collector
Martin Inexperienced (MG), resident gentleman
The Iconic category emphasizes males’s or ladies’s watches from a model’s emblematic assortment, that means one which has had an enduring affect on watchmaking and its historical past in addition to having been available on the market for greater than 20 years.
GPHG 2020 nominated Iconic watches: Breitling Chronomat B01 42, Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph, Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm, IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph, Piaget Altiplano Origin Automated, Seiko Skilled Diver’s 1000M
GG: I proceed to understand the number of deserving watches within the classes we’ve coated to date, together with on this Iconic set, a bunch of watches that for my part do signify the continuation of longstanding strains and which were necessary to their respective makers.
For the 2019 GPHG, it was pretty clear from the start that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the icon amongst icons; this 12 months, I believe the sector is a bit nearer as there are a selection of entries that may not be universally recognized amongst fans however that may arouse the passions of followers of every model.
ED: Every of those six watches has good motive to be nominated right here as the latest entries in longstanding collections by well-known watch manufacturers. I like all of those fashionable incarnations. However for me, one stands out has having developed simply sufficient to provide it an edge over the others.
MG: Actually, I’m not too keen on this class: how do you examine icons? Notably as a result of this 12 months all six nominated fashions have earned the title. Every has loads going for it, nevertheless it typically turns into one thing of apples and oranges to check them.
IS: I simply don’t perceive the purpose of the GPHG Iconic class and vote for its elimination. Watch manufacturers definitely want no encouragement to revisit their previous collections and, if considered one of their remakes is an distinctive watch, it ought to compete by itself deserves in whichever class it suits. It appears to me that the GPHG might merely award a prize every year in flip to the entire iconic watches if the intention was simply to reward longevity and timeless classics.
So far as I’m involved, we could as nicely toss cash to pick out a winner right here out of the highest three. The GPHG Iconic class guidelines present no pointers for what to search for in a winner besides that the primary mannequin needed to be launched a minimum of 20 years in the past. Are we on the lookout for the very best watch right here, the one which has had essentially the most lasting affect on watchmaking historical past, or the one that’s the greatest remake of its unique? Assist!
JM: As soon as once more we return to the Iconic class, the one class the place it appears a bit presumptuous to enter your individual timepiece and the minimal necessities for longevity means the watch might be from this century, hardly what I might often categorize as Iconic. Now there are the uncommon events the place a contemporary watch turns into iconic in a short time (the Ulysse Nardin Freak involves thoughts), however in my thoughts it takes some time.
Regardless, this class is a bit like promenade king: it’s a reputation contest primarily based on how nicely preferred a watch has been on common and the way nicely it has offered. Consistency is nice in merchandise, and longevity positively reveals that it was a really stable design, however like previous classes such because the Revival prize, it additionally sends the message that it’s greatest to not change an excessive amount of. As tastes evolve over the many years good product designers will evolve with the tastes. I like evolution and innovation, so it is a robust class for me to be fully goal about.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42
ED: That rouleaux bracelet! Although I’ve not tried this watch on, I’ve been very admiring of that new bracelet since this watch appeared.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42
MG: The Chronomat made a powerful comeback in its newest version, and credit score for this additionally goes to the redesigned rouleaux bracelet. Actually, I’ve by no means been a fan of the way it appeared, nevertheless it provides a touch of character. I believe Breitling makes a powerful case with the brand new Chronomat, however so robust that it’s going to probably solely attraction to people who find themselves already into the model.
Crown, pushers, and rouleaux bracelet of the two-tone Breitling Chronomat
GG: I had an opportunity to photograph and review the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 on these pages lately, and it’s a weighty and spectacular piece – and with its onion crown, distinctive bracelet hyperlinks, and tabbed bezel, it’s simply recognizable as a direct descendant of the unique Chronomats. It’s my third-place selection, however I might think about swapping it up into the runner-up spot I awarded to the Seiko.
JM: Many may already guess that Breitling has by no means been excessive on my private record of favorites, largely for causes just like Rolex in that it has been so broadly plagiarized by very low-quality watches that I now affiliate that aesthetic not with high-end timepieces however with kiosks in purchasing malls.
Sadly for Breitling, its success inadvertently led me to not significantly respect the software/aviator watch model. However this additionally signifies that Breitling and a watch just like the Chronomat are positively among the many extra iconic designs of the final 40 years. Alas, I can’t select it as my winner, and given the variety of classes Breitling has entered I’m pretty assured one thing else will choose up this win.
Breitling Chronomat B01 42
IS: All of us owe a debt of due to Breitling, who, with only a few others, helped alongside the reemergence of the Swiss mechanical watch business in 1984 when the model launched the mechanical Chronomat chronograph at a time when quartz dominated. I just like the look of the Chronomat B01 42, particularly that salmon-colored dial; at 42 mm it’s sensibly sized for a person’s chronograph; the in-house motion is a plus; and the comfy rouleaux bracelet is an enormous bonus.
Additional studying: Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley: Do They Hit The Mark?
Fast Information Breitling Chronomat B01 42
Case: 42 x 15.1 mm, stainless-steel
Motion: automated Breitling Caliber 01; 70-hour energy reserve; 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; date; chronograph
Worth: $8,100 / CHF 7,950
Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph
GG: The Bulgari Aluminium appears a trustworthy recreation of the unique from the model, however I don’t suppose it’s almost the icon when it comes to broad recognition {that a} piece just like the IWC Portugieser is.
MG: Of all six watches within the class, that is most likely the least iconic of them as this watch did outline a decade for this model, however a comparatively younger one. I believe that it captures Bulgari’s dynamic as a model very nicely, they usually did an excellent job of bringing it again. It additionally reveals the model’s versatility as this watch is simply as a lot Bulgari because the Octo Finissimo, and on this planet of watches that in itself is pure gold.
Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph
JM: The Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph is a watch that feels acquainted but additionally not particular sufficient to be simply recalled or remembered. The brand’d bezel might be essentially the most iconic side of the Aluminium Chronograph, however in my head it’s related to vogue and never a particular watch. I’m not saying my reminiscences are the very best indicator of iconic standing, but when the primary picture in my mind isn’t this watch, then it stands to motive I will not be the one one.
ED: Sure, I might agree with you, Joshua. The closely logo-plagued bezel is all the time what has caught out to me about this line, and justifiably strongly calls to thoughts the Bulgari Bulgari jewellery and watch strains, which have traditionally been geared towards the style enviornment (although that is not completely the case). Throughout a chat we had with Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin at Geneva Watch Days, he mentioned that the brand new Aluminium watches have been particularly aimed toward attracting a brand new, youthful clientele. It’s laborious to reconcile that with a class referred to as “Iconic.”
Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph
IS: Except for the distinctive look of the Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph, the large attraction for me of this 40 mm aluminum-cased chronograph is its consolation on the wrist, due to each its gentle weight and intelligent linked-rubber bracelet. And at 4,000 Swiss francs, it’s very competitively priced in comparison with the others right here. however I simply don’t really feel that the mannequin is “iconic” sufficient.
Additional studying: New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future
Fast Information Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph
Case: 40 x 11.1 mm, aluminum with black PVD-coated titanium case again and rubber bezel
Motion: automated Caliber B130 (ETA 2894 base), 42-hour energy reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes; date, chronograph
Worth: €4,250 / CHF 4,000
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm
ED: What a incredible variation of the Laureato with a brand new onyx dial. I’m smitten. In distinction to the trendy Laureato variations which have come out since 2017 sporting variations of the tapisserie model of dial that Audemars Piguet made well-known with its Royal Oak, these have actual charisma. I discovered the tapisserie dials actually made the Laureato fashions appear like Royal Oaks – far, far too related for my style.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm
GG: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is certainly a transparent descendant of the unique watches of that title, however as I’m on the file as having characterised the unique Laureato as by-product of the Royal Oak I’m laborious pressed to provide this model a prime spot as an icon.
ED: Loud and clear, Gary! Nevertheless, I imagine that this onyx-dialed model lastly breaks it out of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak mildew for me. A lot in order that I want to make it my winner on this class.
JM: The Laureato assortment and Girard-Perregaux have suffered over the many years as a model that was doing loads of attention-grabbing issues however nonetheless tried to play it protected simply sufficient that the design of the Laureato isn’t the primary to return to thoughts for a metal sports activities watch. The daring danger taking didn’t appear to be there from the start and so the Laureato isn’t often introduced up except somebody refers to it because the “poor man’s Royal Oak” (which I don’t). That is too dangerous as a result of it’s arguably an superior watch with a singular (if restrained) design with a great deal of pedigree behind it. However for the explanations acknowledged it has struggled to attain iconic standing by itself, and solely in relation to different watches. This Infinity Version with black onyx dial is tremendous cool, however I simply don’t know if it’s the most iconic of the bunch.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm
IS: I don’t perceive why the Girard-Perregaux Laureato isn’t extra fashionable with collectors as its design has stood the take a look at of time for almost 50 years. The Infinity Version is an ideal look ahead to each formal and informal put on, and the matching dial and date wheel earn bonus factors from me. Nevertheless, whereas not talked about within the class guidelines, I’ve all the time felt that to have any that means in any respect this class is for brand new reeditions of iconic previous fashions, and I can’t assist however really feel that the Infinity Version is extra a (welcome) continuation of the Laureato assortment moderately than a brand new search for an iconic previous mannequin.
MG: What a powerful comeback for the Laureato! I’ve all the time had a delicate spot for this watch however seeing it throughout Geneva Watch Days within the steel made me fall for it over again. The onyx dial proves a stroke of brilliance because it underscores the design’s purity. For that matter, I might have beloved it much more if Girard-Perregaux had saved the textual content on the dial to an absolute minimal, however I do really feel that the model is lastly heading in the right direction once more with this assortment.
Additional studying: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Infinity: Black Onyx Dial, Steel Case, And Vintage Flair
Girard-Perregaux Returns To SIHH With 2017 Laureato Models, Including Elegant Editions For Women
Fast Information Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm
Case: 42 x 10.7 mm, stainless-steel
Motion: automated Caliber GP01800-1404 with one-minute flying triple-axis tourbillon, energy reserve 54 hours; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, skeletonized
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 188 items
Worth: €12,900 / $13,200 / £9,800 / CHF 12,260
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph
MG: Can a watch be an icon inside an iconic assortment? I believe the Portugieser Chronograph proves that certainly that is potential! Whereas the unique Portugiesers have been time solely, it has been the chronograph through the years that has change into the poster youngster for the gathering. To such an extent that I believe for those who ask individuals in regards to the Portugieser, that is the watch that pops up of their minds. Whereas the Portugieser began its profession powered by a Valjoux 7750, it’s now a manufacture caliber. I’m an absolute sucker for this dial coloration, solely wanting it on a brown strap. For me, absolutely the winner on this class.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph with inexperienced dial
GG: For me, the piece that rises to the highest can also be the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph, Martin. It’s a watch that’s immediately recognizable to the overwhelming majority of watch lovers and that’s very trustworthy to the aesthetic cues which have characterised this line since its origin. That is an attention-grabbing class in that, a minimum of for me, the judging normal is extra closely weighted towards continuity and heritage than towards straight-up analysis of the timepieces on their very own deserves. I believe that the IWC is a transparent winner on the previous and does simply superb on the latter.
JM: The IWC Portugieser is a reasonably well-known and fashionable mannequin for IWC and is simply second for the model after THE mannequin, the Pilot’s Watch. It’s clear that it’s recognizable and usually coveted as a bit to get from IWC, particularly the chronograph. It has developed over time, and so the small print should not completely constant through the years, however they’re fairly near the fashions of the Eighties and Nineteen Nineties. Nevertheless, I don’t know if the Portugieser Chronograph has sufficient of a popularity to say to be essentially the most iconic of the bunch, so I’m inserting it third on my record. But when the ultimate jury members are followers of IWC particularly it might climb the ranks.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph with inexperienced dial
IS: I like IWC’s Portugieser however am not a fan of the intense inexperienced dial of this chronograph. And just like the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version, this Portugieser Chronograph appears to be like too just like the Portugieser Chronographs that come out each few years moderately than being a brand new tackle an previous stalwart. Nevertheless, the IWC Portugieser is head and shoulders essentially the most important iconic mannequin right here for me, and that’s adequate to earn it my nomination because the winner of this class.
ED: I like the purity of the Portugiesers, however I’m not a selected fan of it within the chronograph variation. Nevertheless, I have to agree with Gary on the character of its ubiquitous capability to be acknowledged, due to this fact it’s my runner up.
Additional studying: New IWC Portugieser Chronographs Now With In-House Automatic Movements
Green On Green: 5 Green Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2020
Fast Information IWC Portugieser Chronograph
Case: 41 x 13.1 mm, stainless-steel
Motion: automated manufacture Caliber 69355, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 46-hour energy reserve
Capabilities: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; chronograph
Worth: €7,850 / $7,950 / CHF 8,200
Piaget Altiplano Origin Automated
MG: As an enormous Piaget fan, I’m all the time very strict with this model. Whereas the Altiplano is to me some of the iconic costume watches of all time, this specific model will not be slicing it. If you happen to name the mannequin “Origin,” followers count on one thing carefully associated to the very first Altiplano fashions. In essence, which means two arms, not three.
Piaget Altiplano Origin Automated
GG: The Piaget Altiplano is perhaps the very best watch on this group with its ultra-thin development. The ultra-thin Piagets we’ve seen through the years are definitely icons, however this one strays a bit farther from the design cues of the earliest Piaget ultra-thins than do among the different watches on this class from their forebears, and that pushed it down the ranks for me.
MG: Whereas I can recover from the date, Gary, as again within the day Piaget made additionally an beautiful model of the 12P named Caliber 12PC that includes a date perform, I can’t recover from the subsidiary seconds. Additionally, whereas the unique fashions of the 9P and 12P-powered watches have been very pure, this one is borderline boring. Am I too strict with Piaget? Maybe. However I do know what this model is able to, so the expectations are excessive.
ED: It additionally strays too removed from the standard Piaget search for me as nicely, regardless that I very a lot respect its devilish thinness and class.
IS: I’m a fan of ultra-thins and suppose that the Piaget Altiplano Origin Automated is a lovely males’s costume watch, which makes me surprise why it wasn’t entered within the Males’s class. I like the clear styling dial facet and sensational motion from the show again. However once more, Piaget, you enter one of many world’s greatest ultra-thins within the GPHG however don’t provide a photograph of it in profile highlighting simply how slim it’s. The Piaget Altiplano Origin Automated is a possible class winner in my eyes, however sadly, not on this class.
Piaget Altiplano Origin Automated
JM: The Piaget Altiplano is as iconic as you may get with regards to ultra-thin costume watches, just about defining the aesthetic of the complete class. That mentioned, ultra-thin costume watches get a lot much less consideration than massive stainless-steel sport watches, diving watches, and pilot’s watches. I believe the Altiplano has a stable likelihood of profitable the class, however I believe it relies upon closely on the jury. They might downplay an ultra-thin costume watch and play up others. For that motive, I’m placing it down as a second-place end, however I can’t be shocked if it squeaks out the win.
Fast Information Piaget Origin Automated
Case: 40 x 6.36 mm, white gold
Motion: automated ultra-thin Caliber 1205P with micro rotor, 3 mm in peak, 44-hour energy reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Worth: 24,800 Swiss francs
Seiko Prospex Skilled Diver’s 1000M “Tuna”
ED: Ah, the “Tuna.” There’s hardly a extra iconic diver’s watch, is there? A watch line that made its debut in 1975, this 12 months’s model is up to date in that it has the flexibility to dive to 1,000 meters, making it a real instrument. Nonetheless, its essentially massive measurement (53.4 x 17.4) turns me proper off. As a real diver’s watch nice – for anything, hmmmm.
Seiko Prospex Skilled Diver’s 1000M “Tuna”
MG: That is the one watch of the six that has a nickname – or to be extra exact, its case model has a nickname. I like the way in which that Seiko made this specific model of the “Tuna” with a Japanese eye for element and a really attention-grabbing mixture of supplies. Deep in my coronary heart is that this maybe the watch that I wish to win, as all the things mixed it’s such a powerful proposition.
IS: Like so many different nominated watches right here, I scratched my head as to why the Seiko Skilled Diver’s 1000M is on this class. And it additional will increase my surprise as to why the Iconic class exists in any respect. Sure, I perceive that this new Prospex is a reinterpretation of an iconic mannequin, nevertheless it’s an unabashed dive watch and can be a powerful contender to win the Diver’s class. However Iconic it’s and the sheer reputation of the Seiko Prospex earns it my vote for runner up right here.
GG: I’m probably not a Seiko man, however the model appears fairly the new factor nowadays, particularly amongst youthful collectors, and the Skilled Diver’s 1000M “Tuna” is a hanging model of the Tuna line’s elementary design that’s each up to date trying with its use of recent supplies and pure Tuna with its protecting shroud, marker and hand shapes, and crown location. It’s my second selection on this 12 months’s Iconic race.
Seiko Prospex Skilled Diver’s 1000M “Tuna”
JM: The Seiko Skilled Diver, aka the Prospex “Tuna,” is simply the proper mixture of quirky and fashionable to win this class. Whereas all the opposite watches are nice trying and fashionable for a wide range of causes, it is a watch that turned highly regarded not simply with divers (as a result of it was a terrific dive watch) however with watch followers on account of its barely wacky design. For that motive by itself, the Tuna is a really well-known dive watch to collectors, and for each new “Tuna” mannequin that comes out Seiko followers are there to purchase it up as quick as they will. I believe this watch might win it, although just like the Piaget Altiplano it relies on the jury. However the reputation of the Seiko Skilled Diver offers it the sting in my guide and is the watch I predict to take the prize on this class.
Fast Information Seiko Prospex Skilled Diver’s 1000M “Tuna”
Case: 52.4 x 17.4 mm, titanium
Motion: automated Caliber 8L35, 50-hour energy reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Capabilities: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Worth: 4,350 Swiss francs
Predicted Winners
Elizabeth: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm
Ian: IWC Portugieser Chronograph
Joshua: Seiko Prospex Skilled Diver’s 1000M “Tuna”
Gary: IWC Portugieser Chronograph
Martin: IWC Portugieser Chronograph
