The 2020 version of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has simply revealed the record of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches within the run-up to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet occasion in Geneva on November 12, 2020.
The categories for 2020 represent the next: Women, Women Complication, Males’s, Males’s Complication, Iconic, Chronograph, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, Calendar and Astronomy, Divers, Jewelry, Inventive Crafts, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail costs between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs), and Problem (watches with retail costs beneath 4,000 Swiss francs).
The principle prize of the night is the Aiguille d’Or, the perfect watch general amongst all of the entrants, which will probably be voted within the room by a smaller jury chosen from the 400 Academy members.
As a result of COVID-19 state of affairs of 2020, there isn’t any world tour scheduled for the shortlisted watches this 12 months. Nevertheless, they’ll more than likely be obtainable to view in Geneva someday quickly. I concern that should all nonetheless be decided.
However sufficient preamble, let’s take a look on the watches which are in critical competition for the prizes as of in the present day.
The Women class accommodates girls’s watches comprising solely the next indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, energy reserve, and/or traditional moon part. These timepieces could also be adorned with a most of eight carats’ value of gem stones.
The shortlisted watches are: Beauregard Lili, Bovet Miss Audrey, Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Bouton perle, Dior Grand Bal Ruban, Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de diamants et saphirs, Piaget Limelight Gala Valuable Dégradé de Saphirs.
In accordance with this class’s description, Women Complication constitutes girls’s watches exceptional when it comes to their mechanical creativity and complexity. These could characteristic every kind of traditional and/or modern problems and indications just like the annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon part, a digital or retrograde time show, world time, twin time or others. These don’t match the definition of the Women or Mechanical Exception classes.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse fleur de sel, Jacob & Co. Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace, Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon, Van Cleef & Arpels Girl Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant.
Males’s watches comprise the next indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, energy reserve, and traditional moon part. These timepieces could also be adorned with a most of 5 carats’ value of gem stones.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial, De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky, Laurent Ferrier Traditional Origin Inexperienced, Petermann Bédat Seconde morte, Romain Gauthier Perception Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Solely Carbonium Version, Voutilainen 28SC.
Males’s Complication watches are to be exceptional when it comes to their mechanical creativity and complexity. These could characteristic every kind of traditional and/or modern problems and indications just like the annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, moon part, a digital or retrograde time show, world time, twin time or others. These don’t match the definition of the Males’s or Mechanical Exception classes.
The shortlisted watches are: Bovet Récital 27, De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux Quasar Mild, Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1, Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT, MB&F HM10 Bulldog Ti.
Iconic is a brand new class emphasizing males’s or women’ watches from a model’s emblematic assortment, which means one which has had a long-lasting affect on watchmaking and its historical past in addition to having been in the marketplace for greater than 20 years.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Chronomat B01 42, Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph, Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Version 42 mm, IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph, Piaget Altiplano Origin Computerized, Seiko Skilled Diver’s 1000M.
Within the Chronometry class we discover mechanical watches that comprise a minimum of one tourbillon and/or a particular escapement and/or one other growth bettering precision timekeeping. Further indications and/or problems are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Pressure in stainless-steel, Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2, H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris.
Calendar and Astronomy is a two-year-old class meant to emphasise astronomical and/or calendar problems included in males’s watches. Why solely males’s watches I have no idea. These timepieces should embody a minimum of one of many following: date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complicated moon part, or different. Further indications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Behrens Apolaire, Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin, IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Membership Moon & Tide, Parmigiani Fleurier Hijiri Perpetual Calendar, Sarpaneva Lunations Harvest Moon, Vacheron Constantin Abroad Perpetual Calendar Extremely-Skinny Squelette.
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph class are mechanical watches comprising a minimum of one chronograph indication. Further indications and/or problems are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Atelier de Chronométrie Chronographe à Rattrapante, Breitling Prime Time Restricted Version, H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Computerized, Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka, Louis Moinet Memoris Superlight, Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT in metal.
The Mechanical Exception class options males’s or women’ watches with a particular mechanism reminiscent of an modern or subtle show, an automaton, a belt-driven motion, a putting or different acoustic perform, or some other unique and/or distinctive horological idea.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance, Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter 2, Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron, MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome, Piaget Altiplano Final Idea, Ressence Kind 2A.
The Divers class accommodates watches linked to the sector of diving, whose capabilities, supplies, and design are suited to this exercise.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Superocean Computerized 48 Boutique Version, Doxa SUB300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers, Grand Seiko 9RA5 Skilled Diver’s 600M, Ming 18.01 H41, Reservoir Hydrosphere Bronze x Revolution The Maldives Version, Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn.
Jewelry watches show distinctive mastery of the artwork of knickknack and gemsetting. These timepieces are additionally distinguished by the selection of stones featured in them.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Intrecciati, Chopard Magari, Dior Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles, Jacob & Co. The Thriller Tourbillon Full Ruby, Piaget Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie Opale Noire, Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Frivole Secrète.
Additional studying: Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History
Watches within the Inventive Crafts class show distinctive mastery of 1 or a number of inventive strategies reminiscent of enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine turning), skeletonizing, and extra.
The shortlisted watches are: Andersen Genève Heures Sautantes 40th Anniversary, Bovet Amadeo Tourbillon Squelette 7 Days, Dior Grand Bal Plume, Hermès Arceau Into the Canadian Wild, Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Phoenix, Van Cleef & Arpels Girl Arpels Soleil Féerique.
Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille class are provided for a retail value that falls between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs. Smartwatches had been admissible right here, however none have made it via.
The shortlisted watches are: Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton, Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Restricted Version II, Habring2 Chrono Felix Panda, IWC Schaffhausen Porgtuieser Computerized 40, Sarpaneva x Moomin, Trilobe Secret.
Watches entered into the Problem class are provided for a retail value beneath 4,000 Swiss francs. Smartwatches had been admissible right here, however none have made it via.
The shortlisted watches are: Behrens Rotary, Breitling Endurance Professional, Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka Anniversary Inexperienced Mori, Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, Ming 27.01 Extremely Plat, Tudor Fifty-Eight.
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For extra data, please go to www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2020/nominated-watches.